How to get rid of spider mites during flowering

How to get rid of spider mites during flowering

How to get rid of spider mites during flowering, once and for all!

How to get rid of spider mites during flowering

We’ll walk you through exactly what you need to do to get rid of spider mites during flowering, but the most important thing is that you act FAST.

If this is a familiar sight to you, then you’re no stranger to Spider mites and the havoc they wreck, these nasty little buggers can cover an entire grow overnight, seemingly from nowhere, and if you’re afraid of spiders – a real-life nightmare.

But don’t panic, If acted upon quick enough, you can eliminate them and their eggs and save your crop.

What are spider mites?

How to get rid of spider mites during flowering

Spider mites are typically less than 1mm (0.04 in) in size and often vary in color. They spread rapidly by laying tiny, initially transparent eggs and most species spin silk webbing as a form of predatory protection.

This is where the name spider mites comes from. They are actually part of the Acari (mite) subclass and are not the “Spiders” we know of.

Spider mites thrive in hot and dry conditions, much like a flowering room or tent. Under perfect conditions (around 27c or 80f), the spider mites can hatch in as little as 3 days from being laid and some species can become sexually mature in as little as 5-7 days!

A single female mite can lay up to 30 eggs per day, for approximately 30-60 days until the day they die, that’s around 900 – 1800 eggs per mite, hence the explosive overnight infestation that often occurs.

How to get rid of spider mites during flowering:

So your plants have reached the flowering stage of their life cycle, you have likely invested your time and money to get them where they are today, only to be struck with an infestation seemingly from nowhere.

When your plants are in the flowering stage, the last thing you want to do is use any harmful chemicals, fungicides or insecticides, typically the traditional spider mite removal methods aren’t suitable for the flowering stage as chemicals tend to leave residue and alter the taste of your buds, even more so if applied during the late stage of flowering.

Using CO2 as an effective chemical-free, organic solution:

Whilst CO2 is non-poisonous, you can use it to replace the oxygen in the air, this will deprive the mites of essential oxygen, effectively suffocating them, leaving no residues on your plants or equipment.

This won’t cause any harm for your plants, in fact, a boost of CO2 might help them deal with the stress of damage caused by the mites.

What you’ll need:

How to get rid of spider mites during flowering:

  1. Make sure that your grow area is sealed as well as you can, tape any cracks in the windows and doors

    Any cracks in the doors & windows will allow oxygen in and defeat the objective, so this is essential.

  2. Set your CO2 meter for 12,000 ppm

    If you’re using a grow tent, set the ppm to 15,000 – this will allow for any leaks, If your CO2 meter doesn’t go this high, you can use a calculator.

  3. Calculate the amount of CO2 you will need for your grow space, switch off any exhaust fans.

    For example, a 1000 cubic feet grow tent will require 12 cubic feet of CO2, use this calculator for an accurate calculation.

  4. Switch your CO2 generator on and leave the room

    Uhm, if you don’t leave the room at this stage – you’re gonna suffocate and die… so this is pretty important

  5. After your generator has finished pumping in CO2 turn the exhaust fans on before entering the room.

    Let the exhaust fans run for at least an hour before entering the room, otherwise, you run the risk of carbon dioxide poisoning.

You can now enter the room, begin cleaning the webs and dead mites with a vacuum cleaner, you may need to get a clean painters brush and brush upwards to make sure that you get all the webs off your plants.

You will want to repeat this entire process in 5 days to kill any dormant eggs that have now hatched to permanently eliminate the mites.

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Author: tgallone

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